Fusion Strike English Card List Guide
16 September 2026
Use this Fusion Strike checklist guide to understand the 264-card main set, cards 265–284, rarity sections, notable Pokémon, and master-set options.
Use this Fusion Strike checklist guide to understand the 264-card main set, cards 265–284, rarity sections, notable Pokémon, and master-set options.
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TLDR There is a microphone in the television. According to LG’s own service terms, certain voice-recognition features may capture and analyze the voices of family members, guests, children, and bystanders nearby. LG’s answer to the obvious privacy problem is blunt: obtaining the necessary consent is the owner’s responsibility. The wording reviewed for this article appears in current regional LG service terms. It says customers must notify household members and guests that their voices may be captured and processed in compliance with wiretapping, eavesdropping, and privacy laws. If someone does not consent, LG tells the owner to disable the microphone or voice features. LG then disclaims liability for the owner’s failure to obtain that consent or provide the warning. That is an extraordinary obligation to place on someone who bought a television. LG developed the product. LG included the voice-recognition system. LG operates or enables the AI-based services. But when another person’s voice enters the system, LG’s terms attempt to make the customer responsible for understanding the law and managing everyone else’s consent. LG supplies the listening technology. The owner gets the compliance problem. What LG’s Voice-Recognition Terms Actually Say The most alarming part of LG’s terms is not a vague statement that voice data may be processed. It is the list of people who may be affected. LG says third-party voices and utterances in the vicinity may be recorded and analyzed to provide AI-based services. The examples include: These are not all people who intentionally activated the voice assistant. A guest may not know the television has voice-recognition features. A child may not understand what audio processing means. A contractor, babysitter, cleaner, neighbor, or friend may have no reason to expect that speaking in the room could involve an LG service. LG’s terms then state that it is the user’s “sole responsibility” to obtain all necessary third-party consents and notify household members and guests. The company specifically mentions wiretapping, eavesdropping, and privacy laws. The terms do not give an ordinary customer a realistic system for doing any of this. There is no suggested notice to place on the door. There is no guest-consent screen. There is no household privacy dashboard explaining whose consent is needed in each jurisdiction. LG simply assigns the responsibility to the owner and advises turning off the microphone when someone objects. LG Says It Does Not Record Ambient Conversations It is important not to turn LG’s disturbing legal language into a claim the evidence does not support. LG has said its televisions do not collect, record, or store ambient conversations. The company says voice recognition is optional, user-initiated, and processes voice data only when activated to fulfill a request. It also says customers can use smart TV features without enabling voice recognition. LG’s US support instructions also show that voice recognition can be enabled or adjusted through the television’s AI Service settings. Some models support wake-word and hands-free controls, while available features vary by model and webOS generation. Those facts matter. The terms do not prove that every LG television continuously records every conversation in the room. They do not prove that LG is intentionally violating wiretapping law. They also may not apply identically in every country, since LG publishes different terms and services across regions. But LG’s response does not make the terms harmless. The company’s own agreement still recognizes that third-party voices may be captured during use of voice-recognition features. It still names children, guests, and bystanders. And it still attempts to make the customer responsible for consent, notification, and legal compliance. The concern is narrower than “LG listens to everything.” It is also more defensible: LG created a voice-processing system that may capture people who never bought the television, never opened an LG account, and never accepted LG’s terms. Your Guests Never Agreed to LG’s Terms A customer may click “agree” during television setup. That does not mean everyone entering the customer’s home has also agreed. Consider a normal living room during a football game. Friends are talking over the television. Children are playing nearby. Someone uses a voice command to search for a player or change the volume. Another person’s words are picked up at the same time. Who gave consent? LG’s terms appear to say that answering that question is the owner’s job. The same problem exists in less obvious settings. LG televisions may be found in hotel rooms, rental properties, conference rooms, waiting areas, restaurants, classrooms, offices, and shared homes. The person who agreed to the service terms may not even be present when someone else’s voice is captured. A contract between LG and the device owner cannot automatically create informed consent from every third party near the product. That does not mean voice capture is always illegal. Recording and privacy laws vary by country and state. Some laws focus on whether a person reasonably expected privacy. Others distinguish between recording a conversation and processing a voice command. The details matter. But those details are exactly why LG’s “sole responsibility” language is so unreasonable for an ordinary buyer. The average television owner should not need to research state recording statutes before asking the television to open Netflix. What Does LG Expect Owners to Tell Visitors? Taken literally, LG’s terms create a social ritual that almost no one will follow. A homeowner would need to say something like: Before we watch the game, you should know that this LG television has voice-recognition features. Your voice may be captured and processed when those features are used. Please tell me if you do not consent so I can disable the microphone. That might satisfy the spirit of LG’s warning. It would also be absurd in a normal home. Should parents obtain permission before their children bring friends into the room? Should someone warn a plumber before demonstrating a noise coming from the television? Should a short-term rental owner place an audio-processing disclosure beside the remote? LG’s terms give customers the obligation without giving them a usable process. And when consent is not
The MTG Arena friends list may stop working for a few common reasons: friend requests fail, a display name or five-digit number does not match exactly, Direct Challenge or Challenge Lobby screens get stuck, the social panel shows outdated information, or Arena is dealing with a server-side issue. If you are trying to add friends, receive requests, or start a match and nothing behaves the way it should, the usual fixes are checking the exact account name and number, restarting the client, updating the game, and making sure your network connection is stable. The MTG Arena friends list is supposed to make playing with friends simple: add a player, send a challenge, pick decks, and start the match. When it works, great. When it does not, you get the full Arena social experience: missing friend requests, stuck challenge screens, mismatched names, and two players staring at menus while insisting they definitely typed everything correctly. Most MTG Arena friends list problems fall into a few buckets. The friend request will not send. The friend does not appear. The display name or five-digit number is wrong. Direct Challenge or Challenge Lobby invites get stuck. The social panel shows outdated information. Or the entire friends list behaves like it has been hit by a very legal, very annoying bounce spell. Wizards has also acknowledged multiple social and challenge-related issues over time, including Direct Challenge mismatched-option behavior, friend requests lingering after acceptance, challenge animations looping, and friend challenge UI problems. So if you are having trouble, it is not always user error. Sometimes the client is simply doing Arena things. This guide focuses on the fixes that matter most to players dealing with friends list and challenge problems, from basic checks and cache clearing to advanced network troubleshooting, bug reporting with logs, and a few habits that help keep the feature working reliably. https://magic.wizards.com/en/mtgarena Gathering Arena Friends List Context The friends list in MTG Arena is tied to your Wizards account display name, your five-digit identifier, the client’s social menu, and the current challenge system. Older guides and many players still say “Direct Challenge,” while newer Arena updates introduced Challenge Lobbies, which unified Friend Challenge and Direct Challenge into one lobby-style system. Wizards announced Challenge Lobbies as a social feature upgrade that lets players create lobbies from the Challenges section of the social menu or invite online friends from the friends list. That matters because some troubleshooting depends on which flow you are using. A friend request issue is different from a challenge issue. A display name problem is different from a server-side social outage. And a challenge that will not start may have nothing to do with your friends list at all. Start with the simplest explanation first. Check spelling, restart the client, confirm the game is updated, then move into cache, reinstall, logs, and support. Quick Checks For MTG Arena Friend List Before deleting files or reinstalling anything, run through the basic fixes. They are boring, yes. They also solve a surprising number of Arena problems, which is somehow both comforting and irritating. First, restart MTG Arena completely. Do not just return to the home screen. Close the client, wait a few seconds, and relaunch it. On mobile, force close the app and reopen it. Next, check the official MTG Arena status page. The status page tracks platform and service components such as Windows, macOS, Android, iOS, Game, Logins, Matches, Social, and Store. If Social, Logins, or Matches are degraded, your friends list may not behave normally no matter what you do locally. Then update the game. If Arena is asking for a small download or restart after a patch, both players should update before trying to add friends or challenge each other. Wizards notes that update and install problems can come from network issues, Windows-level problems, or leftovers from a partial install. Finally, confirm your network is stable. If Arena loads slowly, hangs on menus, or disconnects often, the friends list may only be a symptom. On mobile, Wizards recommends checking the device’s internet connection, toggling Wi-Fi off and on, restarting the device, force closing background apps, updating the app, and reinstalling if needed. Troubleshoot: Add Friends And Display Name Issues Most failed friend requests come down to the display name. Friends list issues in MTG Arena are common because Arena is strict about username formatting. MTG Arena names are not just “PlayerName.” They include the visible display name plus a five-digit number, usually shown in the format DisplayName#12345. Wizards’ Direct Challenge FAQ says players need both the display name and the five-digit number associated with the account. It also notes that display names are case sensitive, which means DragonFan#12345 and dragonfan#12345 may not be treated the same. Check these details before assuming the friends list is broken: Make sure the display name is typed exactly as shown. Confirm capitalization. Confirm the five-digit number separately. Do not include extra spaces before or after the name. Make sure your friend is sending you the correct account name, not the name from an old or secondary account. That last point matters. Wizards explains that two accounts can have the same display name text but different five-digit identifiers, such as SameDisplayName#12345 and SameDisplayName#54321. If a player accidentally logs into or creates a secondary account, the friends list lookup will not point to the account they actually use. The safest method is to have your friend copy their full Arena name from the client and send it to you outside the game. If they type it manually, ask for a screenshot. It feels overly cautious until you lose ten minutes to one lowercase letter. Step-by-Step: Add Friends To add a friend in MTG Arena, use the friends list panel rather than guessing from the main Play menu. Open the Friends List panel, usually found at the bottom-left of the Arena client. Click the plus sign at the top right of the friends list. Enter the exact Arena username for the person you want to
Cheap MTG Cards are not just for new players. They are for Commander brewers, cube builders, collectors who like having options, and anyone who has ever looked at the price of one land and thought, “Surely cardboard has gone too far.” The best budget strategy is not one single source. It is a mix. Use real singles when you need tournament legality, use lots when you want volume, use proxies for casual testing, and use ready-made cube products when you want a complete play experience without turning your evenings into spreadsheet maintenance. Gathering Cards: Cheap MTG Cards Sources The cheapest MTG collection strategy usually breaks into four lanes. ProxyMTG.com is a strong choice for bulk budget proxies and on-demand printed proxy cards for casual use. Print-at-home proxies are the cheapest overall route if your group allows them and you already have a printer. PrintACube.com is worth considering if you want a ready-to-draft 540-card cube near the $100 mark. For authentic cards, compare singles against bulk lots before buying, because “cheap” can mean very different things depending on your goal. Singles are better when you need specific cards. Lots are better when you want maximum cardboard per dollar. Proxies are better when you want to test decks or protect expensive originals. Cubes are better when you want an entire repeatable format in one purchase. ProxyMTG.com And Bulk Proxies ProxyMTG.com is one of the better budget options for players who want bulk proxies and on-demand printing. The value improves as order size increases, which matters if you are printing a Commander deck, testing multiple decks, or building a cube. Before ordering from any proxy seller, check the reputation, production samples, card feel, customer photos, and shipping policies. Good proxy cards should be clearly treated as proxies, not as tournament-legal originals. They should also be readable, consistent in size, and easy to sleeve. Also check delivery times and shipping costs before buying. A low per-card price can get less exciting once shipping, tracking, taxes, and rush fees join the table like an uninvited combo player. Print At Home: Cheapest Route Printing proxies at home is usually the lowest per-card cost. It is not the prettiest option, but it works well for deck testing, kitchen-table Commander, cube prototypes, and deciding whether a card is actually good before spending money on the real version. For better durability, print on heavier cardstock or print on paper and sleeve the proxy in front of a bulk card. The sleeve and backing card do a lot of the work. You are not trying to create a museum object. You are trying to remember whether your seven-mana dragon is playable or just emotionally persuasive. Check local event rules before using printed proxies. Home-printed cards are fine for many casual groups, but sanctioned Magic events require authentic cards except for judge-issued proxies in narrow tournament situations. PrintACube.com Cheap Cube Option PrintACube.com is a useful shortcut for players who want a full cube without buying hundreds of individual singles. Its headline value is the ability to get a complete 540-card cube around $100, which is hard to beat if your goal is draft nights rather than collecting originals. This is especially attractive for cube beginners. Building a cube from scratch can be fun, but it also means choosing archetypes, balancing colors, sourcing cards, sleeving everything, and updating the list over time. Buying a ready cube skips a lot of that work. If your playgroup wants a repeatable draft experience and does not care whether every card is an authentic original, a ready-made proxy cube can be one of the most cost-efficient MTG purchases you make. Buying Singles Vs Lots Buy singles when you need exact cards. This is the right move for Commander staples, missing lands, sideboard cards, or format-specific pieces. Singles reduce waste because you are not buying 800 random cards to find three that matter. Buy lots when you want volume. Bulk lots are useful for new players, casual deckbuilding, school clubs, cube experiments, and anyone who wants a pile of commons and uncommons for cheap. Just understand that most lots are not secretly filled with expensive staples. Sellers also know how Google works. Compare per-card prices across multiple sellers. A $20 lot of 1,000 cards sounds great, but if shipping is $18 and the lot is mostly duplicate draft chaff, the value may be less impressive. On the other hand, a well-sorted lot with lands, tokens, commons, uncommons, and usable rares can be a great starter purchase. Local Sources And Community Local game stores are still one of the best places to find cheap MTG cards. Many stores have bulk boxes, discounted binders, damaged-card bins, and low-cost singles that are not worth listing online. Trade nights can be even better. Bring cards you do not use and trade into cards you actually need. For budget players, trading is often more effective than buying because you are converting dead collection value into playable cards. Also scan Facebook Marketplace, local classifieds, and community groups regularly. Collections appear when players move, quit, clean out closets, or decide that they have too many white storage boxes. Which, to be fair, is all of us eventually. MTG Cards: Quick Buying Tips Compare market prices across major trading sites before you buy. Do not rely on a single listing. One seller asking $12 for a $3 card does not make the card $12. It makes that seller optimistic. Check seller photos for condition accuracy, especially on older cards, foils, and higher-value staples. “Lightly played” can mean very different things depending on the seller’s eyesight and moral flexibility. Set alerts for price drops on targeted cards. Price trackers are useful for Commander staples, reprints, and cards that spike because of new set previews. If you can wait, waiting often saves money. Magic The Gathering Basics For Budget Buyers Rarity affects price, but it does not control price by itself. Commons and uncommons are usually cheaper because they are printed more frequently, while rares and
TLDR The best place to buy MTG proxies depends on what you need. ProxyMTG.com is the best pick for deck-building tools and bulk pricing. PrintMTG.com is best for high-quality print on demand proxies with strong cardstock and service. ProxyKing.biz is best for single staples, dual lands, and realistic proxy cards. For print-at-home testing, use MTGprint. For cubes and large custom batches, consider ProxyPrintery or MakePlayingCards with MPCFill. Avoid PrintingProxies for bulk orders if price matters, since its published high-volume pricing is much higher than ProxyMTG and PrintMTG. Avoid Proxxied if you are trying to buy finished cards, because it is a browser-based print-at-home tool, not a finished-card seller. What This Guide Covers Buying MTG proxies can mean a few different things. Some players want a full Commander deck printed and shipped. Some want a few expensive staples for casual play. Some want a print-at-home PDF. Some want custom cards, double-sided cards, foil upgrades, or an entire cube. This guide is for players who want to know where to buy MTG proxies, what each site is best at, how pricing works, and how to place an order without creating a pile of unusable cards. The selection criteria are simple: print quality, cardstock fidelity, price per card, bulk-order value, ordering tools, decklist import support, turnaround, reputation, realistic appearance, and whether the site is better for casual play, playtesting, custom cards, or full-deck production. The short version: start with ProxyMTG.com, PrintMTG.com, or ProxyKing.biz if you want finished cards. Use MTGprint if you want print-at-home control. Use MPC if you are comfortable with a more involved workflow and want low per-card pricing on custom deck production. Why Choose MTG Proxies Players use MTG proxies for three main reasons: casual play, playtesting, and protecting expensive Magic cards. Casual play is the big one. Commander players often want to try a mana base, a few Reserved List cards, a cEDH shell, or a new deck idea without spending hundreds or thousands of dollars first. A proxy lets the group focus on the game instead of everyone’s collection value. Playtesting is another good use. If you are tuning a cube, testing a new Commander list, or trying cards before buying real copies, proxies save time and money. You can test ten versions of a card package before deciding which real cards are worth buying. Protection matters too. If you own expensive MTG cards, you may not want to shuffle them every week. ProxyKing describes proxies as stand-ins that let players avoid damaging high-value cards, especially expensive staples, dual lands, fetch lands, and other cards that can be costly to replace. Proxies are also useful for custom cards. Some players print custom commanders, cube cards, joke cards, tokens, alternate art versions, or entire deck projects. This is where services like PrintMTG, ProxyMTG, ProxyPrintery, MTGprint, and MPC start to feel very different from each other. How We Chose The Best MTG Proxies The first filter is print quality. A good proxy should be readable, centered well enough for sleeved play, and printed on cardstock that does not feel like paper in a sleeve. For higher-end orders, S33 German black-core stock is a common premium choice because it has a black-core center layer that blocks light and gives cards a more finished feel. The second filter is price. A few single cards can cost more per card and still make sense. A full Commander deck, cube update, or 500-card bulk order needs better pricing. ProxyMTG and PrintMTG both publish bulk pricing that drops as low as $0.30 per card at 1,000+ cards. The third filter is ordering friction. Decklist import matters. Searching card by card is fine for five cards. It is not fine for a full cube unless you enjoy turning admin work into a second hobby. The fourth filter is reputation and use case. Some sellers are best for realistic singles. Some are better for high-volume deck building. Some are better for home printing. And some are fine products but not the best value for the job. Best 6 Sites To Buy MTG Proxies For Deck Building 1. ProxyMTG ProxyMTG.com is the strongest first stop for players who want to print MTG proxies from a decklist, build large orders, and keep pricing clear. It is built around Commander, cube, casual play, and deck testing, with tools for browsing sets, searching cards, uploading lists, choosing versions, and checking out. Its main strength is bulk pricing. ProxyMTG lists a single card at $3, then $2 per card for 2–9 cards. Pricing drops as the order grows: $1.50 at 10–29 cards, $1.25 at 30–49, $1 at 50–74, $0.80 at 75–99, $0.55 at 100–199, $0.45 at 200–499, $0.35 at 500–999, and $0.30 at 1,000+ cards. That makes it especially good for full Commander decks, cube updates, and larger playtest batches. Ordering And Import Decks The cleanest ProxyMTG workflow is to upload a decklist or build a list inside the order tool. The site says users can browse the card library, choose versions, adjust quantities, and watch pricing update as the order grows. A typical order looks like this: ProxyMTG states that it prints on premium S33 German black-core cardstock with a UV coating, which is a good sign if you want cards that feel more like finished game pieces than paper inserts. Double-Sided MTG Proxies And Foil Options For double-sided cards, check the current order builder and ask support if the option is not obvious. ProxyMTG’s public customization guidelines mention custom backs and printed “holo stamp” style graphics when offered, but also clarifies that those are printed graphics, not physical foil stamps or authentication features. That distinction matters. If you need true foil upgrades or double-sided MTG proxies, confirm the option before placing a large order. Do not assume every proxy printer handles MDFCs, transform cards, custom backs, and foil effects the same way. Best for: full Commander decks, cube updates, large-volume deck building, and players who want strong pricing without building an MPC order themselves. Contact: ProxyMTG lists support@proxymtg.com as
TLDR A big game backlog feels like a good problem until it starts feeling like a second job. You buy a game on sale. Then a subscription adds ten more. Then your friends start a co-op game. Then a new RPG drops. Suddenly your library is full of half-started games, and opening the console feels less relaxing than it should. Learning how to finish more games is not about becoming more disciplined in a miserable way. It is about making games feel playable again. Stop Calling It A Backlog If That Makes It Feel Like Work The word “backlog” is useful, but it can also make games sound like chores. Games are entertainment. They can be art, social spaces, challenge machines and comfort food, but they are still something you choose to do. You do not owe every game a full clear. If your backlog makes you feel guilty, change the label. Call it your library. Call it the shelf. Call it “stuff I might play later.” The point is not to trick yourself. It is to stop treating every unplayed game like unfinished homework. That small shift helps. Pick Three Active Games The best backlog rule is simple: keep only three active games. A good three-game rotation might look like this: For example: Or: This works because different moods need different games. Some nights you want progress. Some nights you want something easy. Some nights you want to talk to friends and barely pay attention to objectives. The mistake is having 12 active games. That is not variety. That is noise. Decide What “Finished” Means Before You Start Not every game needs the same finish line. For some games, finishing means credits. For others, it means one campaign clear, one ranked season, one ending, one build, one world, one route or one good weekend. Before starting a game, pick the level of commitment: This prevents the common trap where every game silently becomes a 100% project. Most games do not need that. Most players do not even want that. They just feel like they are supposed to. Use A Fair Quit Rule Quitting a game is allowed. That should not be controversial, but people get strange about it. They spent money, heard it gets good later or feel like they are “bad at games” if they stop. Use a fair quit rule instead. Try one of these: A fair trial is enough. You do not need to finish a game to respect it. Be Honest About Long Games Long games are not bad. Some of the best games ever made are huge. But long games crowd the calendar. If you are playing a 100-hour RPG, you probably should not start three other 60-hour games at the same time. That is how backlogs turn into fog. When you start a long game, pair it with something short. A puzzle game, arcade game, roguelite run or linear action game can keep your rotation fresh without derailing the main project. Also be careful with massive open-world games from subscriptions. They feel free, but time is still the cost. Sales Are Not Savings If You Never Play The Game A $70 game for $8 looks like a deal. Sometimes it is. But if you never install it, you did not buy entertainment. You bought a digital receipt. The same goes for bundles and subscription catalogs. Cheap access is only useful when it leads to actual play. A good sale rule: do not buy a discounted game unless you can name when you plan to play it. Not a perfect rule. But it stops a lot of random library clutter. Separate Comfort Games From Backlog Games Some games are not meant to be finished. Sports games, multiplayer shooters, roguelikes, MMOs, survival games, cozy sims and live-service games often function as routines. You play them because they feel good, not because you are moving toward credits. That is fine. Just do not let them hide the fact that you also want to finish other games. Give comfort games a place. Maybe Friday night is for multiplayer. Maybe Sunday morning is for a cozy game. Then keep your main single-player game protected during other sessions. This is not rigid scheduling. It is just giving different types of games different jobs. Play Short Games Between Big Ones Short games are the secret weapon. A six-hour game can reset your attention. It gives you a clean start, clear progress and a finish line you can actually reach. Short games also remind you that not every good game needs to take over your life. Some of the most memorable games are small, focused and confident enough to end. If your backlog feels stuck, play something short next. Not because short is better. Because momentum matters. Make A “Not Now” List You do not have to delete games from your life forever. Make a “not now” list for games you still respect but do not want to play yet. This is useful for big RPGs, dense strategy games and games tied to a specific mood. A “not now” list removes pressure without pretending you will never return. It also clears your active list, which is what matters most. The Simple Backlog System Here is the clean version: That is enough. You do not need a productivity app for your hobbies unless you enjoy that sort of thing. Why This Matters The U.S. gaming audience is huge. The Entertainment Software Association reported in 2026 that 212.3 million Americans play video games every week. With more players, more subscriptions, more storefronts and more constant releases, it is easy for games to pile up faster than people can play them. The answer is not to rush through everything. The answer is to choose better, quit cleaner and stop letting your library boss you around. FAQs How many games should I play at once? Two or three active games is a good limit for most players. More than that can make progress feel
TLDR Game subscriptions sound cheaper than buying games. Sometimes they are. Sometimes they quietly become another monthly bill you forget to cancel. That is the real issue with Xbox Game Pass vs PlayStation Plus. The question is not which service has the louder marketing. It is which one actually fits the way you play. If you finish several games a month, a subscription can be great. If you play one sports game, one shooter and the same RPG for six months, buying games may still be smarter. Start With Your Main Platform This is the boring answer, but it is usually the right one. If you mainly play on Xbox or PC, start with Xbox Game Pass. If you mainly play on PS5, start with PlayStation Plus. Switching ecosystems just for a subscription rarely makes sense. You also need the hardware, friends list, controller preference, save files and game library to line up. Casual players usually get the best value when the subscription supports what they already do. Xbox Game Pass In Plain English Xbox Game Pass has become more layered over time. Microsoft’s current plans vary by platform, price and access to new releases. As of June 2026, Microsoft says Game Pass Ultimate is $22.99 per month and PC Game Pass is $13.99 per month. Microsoft also says day-one games are included only with Game Pass Ultimate and PC Game Pass, while they are not included with Essential or Premium. That detail matters. A lot of people say “Game Pass has day-one games,” but that is not equally true across every tier. If day-one access is the reason you are subscribing, check the plan before paying. Game Pass is strongest for: It is weaker if you only play one or two games regularly. PlayStation Plus In Plain English PlayStation Plus has three main tiers: Essential, Extra and Premium. Essential covers online multiplayer, monthly games, discounts, cloud storage and other basic benefits. Extra adds the Game Catalog. Premium adds classics, trials and cloud streaming features. For many PS5 owners, Extra is the most interesting middle tier because it adds a large catalog without pushing all the way to Premium. Essential is enough if you mostly need online multiplayer. Premium makes sense if you care about classic games, trials or cloud streaming. If you do not use those features, it is easy to overpay. PlayStation Plus is strongest for: It is weaker if you mostly play on PC or want day-one first-party releases as the main selling point. Casual Players Should Watch The Monthly Math A subscription feels cheap because it is split into monthly payments. That does not mean it stays cheap. At $22.99 per month, Game Pass Ultimate costs about $275.88 over a full year if paid monthly. PlayStation Plus pricing depends on tier and billing cycle, but annual plans often cost less per month than monthly plans. The question is simple: will you play enough games to justify that? Here is a practical test: Your Play Style Best Move You finish 1 game every few months Buy games on sale You try many games but rarely finish them Subscription can work You play online on PS5 PS Plus Essential may be enough You play on Xbox and PC Game Pass is more appealing You want classic PlayStation games PS Plus Premium may fit You only play one live-service game Skip the higher tiers Subscriptions reward variety. They do not always reward focus. Library Rotation Is The Hidden Tradeoff Game libraries change. Microsoft and Sony both warn that game titles, features and availability vary over time. That is normal, but it matters. If you buy a game, you own access to that copy under the store’s rules. If you subscribe, you rent access to a changing library. That can be fine. It just means you should not treat the catalog like a permanent shelf. This is especially important for long RPGs. If you start a 90-hour game through a subscription, make sure you have enough time to finish it or are comfortable buying it later. Which Service Has Better Value? There is no universal winner. Xbox Game Pass is better if you use PC, care about day-one access through the correct plan or like sampling a lot of games. PlayStation Plus is better if you are already committed to PS5, need online multiplayer and want a catalog that sits inside Sony’s ecosystem. Casual players should usually start lower. Upgrade only when you can name the feature you need. That is the key. Do not buy Premium or Ultimate because it sounds complete. Buy it because you will actually use what it includes. The Best Strategy: Subscribe In Bursts For many casual players, the best move is not staying subscribed all year. Subscribe for one or two months when there are several games you want to play. Cancel when you drift back to one main game. Resubscribe later. This works especially well for people with uneven gaming time. Maybe you play a lot in winter. Maybe summer gets busy. Maybe you only finish games during holiday breaks. A subscription should match your life, not become another background charge. Final Recommendation Pick Xbox Game Pass if you play on Xbox and PC, want access to a large rotating library and care about day-one games through Ultimate or PC Game Pass. Pick PlayStation Plus if you mainly play on PS5, need online multiplayer and want a PlayStation-friendly catalog. Skip both higher tiers if you mostly play one or two games. Buy those games on sale instead. That is not the most exciting answer. It is probably the one that saves the most money. FAQs Is Xbox Game Pass better than PlayStation Plus? It depends on your platform. Xbox Game Pass is usually better for Xbox and PC players. PlayStation Plus is usually better for PS5 players. Does every Xbox Game Pass tier include day-one games? No. Microsoft says day-one games are included with Game Pass Ultimate and PC Game Pass, not
TLDR Gaming handhelds used to be simple. You bought the Nintendo one, maybe the PlayStation one, and that was the conversation. Now the category is crowded, expensive and much harder to sort through. That is why Nintendo Switch 2 vs Steam Deck OLED is the main comparison for most players. One is a polished hybrid console built around Nintendo games. The other is a portable PC built around Steam. They both play games on the couch, in bed and on trips, but they are not really trying to serve the same person. The Quick Difference Nintendo Switch 2 is a console first. Steam Deck OLED is a PC handheld first. That one sentence explains most of the buying decision. The Switch 2 is made for simple play. You buy a game, download or insert it, and play. It docks to a TV. The controllers detach. Nintendo’s first-party library is the point. Steam Deck OLED is made for people who want their PC library in a handheld format. It is still much easier to use than many Windows handhelds, but it has more menus, compatibility questions and settings to think about. Neither approach is wrong. They just solve different problems. Choose Nintendo Switch 2 If You Want The Easiest Handheld The Switch 2 is the better pick if you care most about convenience. It is the handheld I would recommend to a family, a casual player or someone who does not want to troubleshoot graphics settings. It is also the better choice if you want Nintendo games at launch and local multiplayer without much setup. Nintendo’s biggest advantage is still its own software. Mario, Zelda, Pokémon, Donkey Kong, Smash, Mario Kart and Animal Crossing-style games are the reason people buy Nintendo hardware. PC handhelds can do a lot. They do not replace that library. The Switch 2 also has the better living-room identity. It is not just handheld. It is a console you can dock, hand controllers to friends and use like a normal Nintendo system. That matters more than specs for many players. Choose Steam Deck OLED If You Already Have A Steam Library The Steam Deck OLED makes the most sense if you already buy games on Steam. Your library comes with you. Your cloud saves often come with you. Steam sales matter more because your purchases are not locked to one console generation in the same way. For PC players, that is a big deal. The OLED screen is also a real strength. Valve lists the Steam Deck OLED with a 7.4-inch HDR OLED display, up to a 90Hz refresh rate and Wi-Fi 6E support. That makes it feel much more polished than the original LCD model. The tradeoff is that not every PC game behaves the same way. Some games are Steam Deck Verified. Some are playable with caveats. Some need settings changes. Some do not work well at all. If that sounds annoying, buy the Switch 2. If that sounds normal, the Steam Deck OLED may fit you better. Price Makes The Decision Harder Price is no longer a small footnote. Nintendo launched the Switch 2 in the U.S. at $449.99, though Nintendo has announced that the U.S. MSRP will rise to $499.99 on September 1, 2026. Valve’s official Steam Hardware announcement from May 2026 lists the Steam Deck OLED 512GB at $789 and the 1TB model at $949. That changes the comparison. The Steam Deck OLED is more flexible, but it is also more expensive. The Switch 2 is less open, but it is cheaper and simpler. A rough way to think about it: Player Type Better Pick Nintendo fan Switch 2 Steam library owner Steam Deck OLED Family with kids Switch 2 PC tinkerer Steam Deck OLED Local multiplayer player Switch 2 Indie game buyer Steam Deck OLED Plug-and-play player Switch 2 Mod-friendly player Steam Deck OLED What About ROG Xbox Ally And Lenovo Legion Go? The ROG Xbox Ally and Lenovo Legion Go lines sit in a different category: Windows handhelds. They can be powerful and flexible, especially if you want Xbox Game Pass, Epic Games Store, Battle.net or other PC launchers. Microsoft lists the ROG Xbox Ally with a 7-inch 1080p 120Hz display, Windows 11, and pricing that starts below the Ally X model. Lenovo’s Legion Go and Legion Go Gen 2 focus on larger displays, detachable controllers and higher-end handheld PC performance. The problem is that Windows handhelds still feel more like small PCs than consoles. That can be good. It can also be messy. If you like tweaking settings and installing launchers, they are worth a look. If you want the cleanest handheld experience, Switch 2 or Steam Deck OLED are easier starting points. The Game Library Question This is where the comparison gets personal. Switch 2 wins if the games you want are Nintendo-first. You are buying the system for Nintendo’s ecosystem, not because it has the biggest third-party library. Steam Deck OLED wins if you care about PC indies, older games, deep discounts and a larger library that follows you across devices. Also think about what you actually finish. A massive Steam library is only useful if you play it. A smaller Nintendo library can feel better if the games are more likely to get used. There is no trophy for owning 400 games you never open. Unfortunately. Travel And Battery Expectations Both systems are portable, but “portable” can mean different things. The Switch 2 is easier to pack and explain. It is the better airport, family trip and hotel-room device. The Steam Deck OLED is more capable, but it is larger and more like carrying a compact PC. Battery life depends heavily on the game. Smaller 2D games are easier on both devices. Big 3D games drain faster. That is true across almost every handheld. If travel is your main use case, comfort and simplicity matter more than theoretical performance. Which One Should You Buy? Buy the Nintendo Switch 2 if you want a simple hybrid
TLDR The short answer is that a real pinball machine does not need a massive room, but it does need more space than its cabinet dimensions suggest. If you are asking how much room do you need for a pinball machine, the safe home answer is simple: plan for about 3 feet of width and 7 feet of depth per machine. That gives the game enough room to sit, enough room for the player to stand naturally, and enough clearance for the machine to be serviced without turning every minor adjustment into a furniture-moving project. Why The Cabinet Measurement Is Not Enough A pinball machine looks narrow from the front. That is the trap. Most modern full-size machines are only a little over two feet wide. On paper, that sounds easy. You might look at a basement wall, office corner, spare bedroom, garage, or theater room and think, “That will fit.” Maybe it will. But pinball is not like sliding a bookcase into a corner. A machine has to be played, nudged, opened, leveled, cleaned, repaired, and occasionally moved. It has a backbox. It has a lockdown bar. It has legs that need space. It has a glass sheet that slides out the front. It has a coin door, buttons, side rails, power cord, and sometimes wall-sensitive topper or backbox clearance. The machine’s listed dimensions tell you whether the object fits. They do not tell you whether the room works. That is the difference this guide is really about. The Practical Home Footprint For One Pinball Machine For one full-size pinball machine, use this planning rule: Minimum workable space: 36 inches wide by 80 inches deep Comfortable space: 42 inches wide by 84 inches deep Ideal space: 48 inches wide by 90 inches deep The machine itself may only be around 27 to 29 inches wide, but giving it at least 36 inches of width makes the room easier to use. That extra side clearance helps with nudging, cleaning, leveling, and avoiding scratches against walls or other machines. Depth is even more important. A typical machine cabinet may be around 55 inches deep, but the player needs space behind the lockdown bar. If the game is crammed into a 60-inch-deep nook, technically it may fit, but nobody will enjoy playing it. A realistic setup needs space for: That is why about 7 feet of room depth is the number that keeps coming up in real home setups. How Much Room Do You Need For A Pinball Machine If It Is Against A Wall? If the machine is going against a wall, plan for a little breathing room behind it. You do not need a giant gap. Pinball machines are designed to sit near walls in arcades and game rooms. But you also do not want the backbox jammed hard against drywall, trim, curtains, shelves, or acoustic panels. A good home setup leaves enough space to: For most home rooms, leaving 2 to 4 inches behind the machine is enough. If you have a topper, wall shelf, low ceiling, mounted TV, framed poster, or slanted ceiling, measure more carefully. The danger is not usually the machine body. The danger is the upper area around the backbox, topper, ceiling, and wall décor. Do You Need Side Clearance? Yes, but not always as much as people think. A single machine can sit fairly close to a wall on one side. Many home owners do that. But if you are choosing the best spot in the room, leave a few inches of side clearance when possible. Side clearance helps with: If you only have one machine, try to leave 3 to 6 inches on each side if the room allows it. If you are placing machines side by side, the spacing can be tighter. In a dedicated pinball row, machines often sit close together. Still, leaving a little space between cabinets makes the row easier to live with. It also reduces the chance of side art damage when someone moves, cleans, or services a game. How Much Space Do You Need For Two Pinball Machines? For two full-size pinball machines side by side, the absolute machine width may be only about 54 to 58 inches total. But a comfortable home row needs more than that. Use this rule: Tight two-machine setup: about 5.5 feet wide Comfortable two-machine setup: about 6 to 6.5 feet wide Ideal two-machine setup: 7 feet wide or more The wider number gives you breathing room between machines and side clearance at the ends. It also makes the row look intentional instead of wedged into a leftover wall. Depth stays about the same as one machine. You still want roughly 7 feet of usable depth from the wall to the standing area. A two-machine row works especially well in: It works less well in narrow rooms where the player blocks the entire walkway. A pinball machine can technically fit in a hallway-style room, but if every game forces people to squeeze past the player, the room will feel annoying fast. How Much Space Do You Need For Three Or More Pinball Machines? Once you get to three machines, think in terms of a real row. For three full-size machines, plan for at least 9 feet of wall width if you want the setup to feel comfortable. You may be able to do it tighter, but 9 feet gives you a much better result. For four machines, plan for roughly 12 feet or more. For five machines, plan for roughly 15 feet or more. These are not hard engineering numbers. They are practical room-planning numbers. They assume a full-size game, some side clearance, and a room that still feels usable. The bigger issue becomes the player zone. Three people can stand at three machines at once. Four people can gather behind them. Suddenly your “pinball wall” is not just furniture. It is a social area. That means you should also think about: A single pinball machine is a piece of entertainment
TLDR The best first pinball rental for someone who likes Godzilla’s deep code is usually Jaws Premium. It has meaningful progression, clear goals, strong modern Stern design, and enough depth to test whether you want a long-term home game without jumping straight into the most punishing options. Why Godzilla Creates A Very Specific Problem Some pinball machines are fun for ten games. Others make you feel like you are slowly learning a world. That is what Godzilla does well. Players who connect with it often are not just responding to the theme, the toys, or the shots. They are responding to the feeling that almost everything matters. A shot might help with a city objective, kaiju battle, multiball, ally, destruction bonus, or late-game progress. Even when a ball does not become a monster score, it usually feels like something moved forward. That creates a tricky rental question: what pinball machine should you rent first if you want that same deep, useful-shot feeling, but you do not want to bring home something that frustrates everyone else in the house? The answer is not simply “rent the highest-rated game available.” Some great machines are demanding. Some deep machines are hard to explain. Some approachable machines are fun but smaller in scope. The right first rental should test three things at once: For that specific test, Jaws Premium is the best starting point. The Main Thing To Look For: Useful-Shot Density The long-tail question is not really “what is the best pinball machine?” It is more specific: What machine feels like Godzilla, where almost every shot seems to build progress? A useful way to think about that is useful-shot density. A game has high useful-shot density when ordinary shots keep feeding bigger systems. You are not just collecting points. You are moving toward modes, multiballs, perks, equipment, rescues, battles, wizard modes, or long-term objectives. A low useful-shot-density game can still be fun. It might be fast, funny, brutal, simple, or satisfying in short bursts. But if you are chasing the Godzilla feeling, you want more than a single mode ladder. You want parallel progress. That is why the best first rentals are not always the deepest games on paper. They are the games where depth, clarity, and shot friendliness meet. Best First Rental: Jaws Premium Jaws Premium is the best first rental if you want a modern machine that feels substantial without becoming homework. The appeal is easy to understand. You are hunting the shark, saving beachgoers, collecting gear, building toward bigger moments, and working through a structure that makes sense even if someone has not studied a rulesheet. That matters for a rental. You do not want to spend the first two days explaining why the game is fun. The machine needs to make a case for itself while people are actually playing it. Jaws also gives you a strong read on what kind of home pinball player you are. If your household enjoys Jaws, you probably like modern Stern depth, cinematic goals, and a game that asks for skill without feeling totally closed off. If your household finds it too fast or too aggressive, that tells you something useful before you spend purchase-level money. The tradeoff is that Jaws can feel sharper than Godzilla. It is not the softest, friendliest modern Stern. Some shots carry real risk. The scoring can come in large chunks, and better players will separate themselves quickly. But as a first rental, that is not a deal-breaker. It is actually helpful. You are testing the upper edge of what your household enjoys. If Jaws feels exciting rather than exhausting, it belongs on the serious buy list. Rent Jaws First If Be Careful If Best Campaign-Style Rental: Dungeons & Dragons: The Tyrant’s Eye If Jaws is the best first all-around test, Dungeons & Dragons: The Tyrant’s Eye is the best test for a long-form owner game. This is the machine to rent if you are drawn to character selection, classes, saved progress, equipment, inventory, choices, dungeon structure, and the sense that the game can keep unfolding over many plays. It is not just “start a mode, finish a mode, start another mode.” It is trying to make pinball feel like an ongoing campaign. That makes it very interesting for a home environment. A game like this can reward repeated play in a different way than a simpler shooter. You can keep learning how its systems connect. You can build familiarity with classes and strategies. You can start thinking beyond “what shot is lit?” and into “what kind of run am I building?” The concern is not mainly that the shots are brutally unfair. The bigger issue is mental load. Some players will love the structure. Others may feel like the game is asking them to understand too much before they can fully enjoy it. That is why it is a smart rental. You do not need to guess. Put it in the house for a month and watch what happens. Do people come back because the campaign hooks them, or do they wander back to simpler machines? Rent Dungeons & Dragons First If Be Careful If Best If You Can Find One: Batman ’66 Batman ’66 belongs in this conversation because it has real home-game depth without feeling as punishing as some modern machines. The problem is availability. It is an older Stern title, and finding a clean one to rent or buy can be harder than finding current-production games. But if a local rental company has one, it is absolutely worth testing. The structure gives players a lot to chew on. Major villains, minor villains, gadgets, mode progress, playfield features, and long-term objectives keep the game feeling large. It has that “there is always something else moving” quality that Godzilla fans often want. It also has a different rhythm. Batman ’66 can feel more deliberate and stop-start than Godzilla. That is not automatically bad. For a home game, a slightly more deliberate machine can be easier
TLDR The part that should bother people most is not that police got called. Police get called to tense civil disputes all the time. The problem is what allegedly happened after they arrived. The American Fork Police response looks like retaliatory policing because the reported enforcement pattern appears aimed at the people criticizing, filming, serving papers, raising legal funds and trying to recover property. That does not mean every officer involved acted unlawfully. It does mean the public deserves records, timelines and answers. Retaliatory policing is not just “police did something I disliked.” It is the use, or apparent use, of police power to punish protected activity. That can include public criticism. It can include filming. It can include lawful process service. It can include raising money for legal fees. It can include using the courts instead of quietly going away. That is why this story matters beyond the original business dispute. You do not need to care about LEGO to care about the American Fork Police response. The core issue is simpler: when a private dispute becomes embarrassing for powerful or connected people, did local police stay neutral, or did they help turn pressure back onto the critics? A Civil Dispute Should Not Become A Police Shield A civil dispute belongs in civil court. That sounds basic, but it matters here. A fight over consigned property, inventory, ownership, contracts, business control or financial loss is normally handled through lawyers, lawsuits, discovery and court orders. Police may get involved if there is violence, trespass, theft, threats or some other independent crime. But police are not supposed to become the enforcement arm for one side’s version of a private dispute. That distinction is the whole ballgame. If one side says, “This is our property,” and the other side says, “No, this was consigned and never transferred,” police should be careful. If there is no clear criminal act happening in front of them, the safest role is usually narrow: prevent violence, document the contact and tell the parties to handle ownership through court. The danger comes when police start treating one side’s legal theory as fact. That is how a civil dispute turns into a police shield. The business or person with possession calls law enforcement. The people trying to recover property are labeled disruptive. The people filming are treated as troublemakers. The people serving papers are treated as harassers. The people raising legal funds are treated as a threat. And suddenly the police presence is not neutral anymore. A police department does not have to formally say, “We are taking sides,” for the effect to be the same. If enforcement only flows toward one side, the message is clear enough. The Pattern Matters More Than Any Single Stop One police call can be ordinary. A tense business dispute can justify a civil standby. A store owner can call police if people refuse to leave private property. Officers can separate people, preserve safety and write reports. None of that automatically proves misconduct. But the American Fork Police response raises a different question because the alleged conduct is not one isolated response. It is a pattern. The reported pattern includes: Any one of those events might have an explanation. Together, they look much harder to brush off. That is why records matter. Public discussion should not have to run on rumors, clips, screenshots and edited video segments forever. If American Fork Police acted properly, the records should help show that. If they did not, the records should show that too. The public should not be asked to accept a vague “trust us” answer when the allegation is that government power may have been used to intimidate private citizens during a public dispute. The Difference Between Keeping Peace And Taking Sides Police have a real job in tense conflicts. They are allowed to keep the peace. They are allowed to prevent fights. They are allowed to enforce valid laws. But keeping peace is not the same as taking sides. Keeping Peace Taking Sides Separating people who are arguing Repeating one private party’s legal theory as if it is settled fact Enforcing a clear trespass warning Treating criticism or filming as criminal behavior Documenting both parties’ claims Escalating only against the people challenging the business Preserving safety during process service Blocking or discouraging lawful service because the recipient dislikes it Telling both sides to use court Using arrest, search or pressure to make one side stop speaking The line is not always clean in the moment. Officers make fast decisions. People are emotional. Businesses have property rights. Private premises matter. But that is exactly why neutrality matters. A police officer at a civil dispute should not act like a private security guard. A badge carries state power. A search, stop or arrest is not a customer-service tool. It is not a reputational management tool. It is not a way to make public criticism less inconvenient. When police use power, the reason needs to be lawful, specific and documented. “People are making a business look bad” is not enough. Why Process Service Matters Process service is not a stunt. It is how lawsuits begin, move forward and become real. That matters because one of the most troubling pieces of the alleged pattern is interference with service of legal papers. If someone is trying to serve a summons, complaint, subpoena or other legal document, the law gives that act special importance. It is the bridge between public conflict and court process. A person being served may dislike it. That is common. Most people are not thrilled to receive legal papers. But not liking service is not a reason for police to block it. If service is being done lawfully, police should not turn the server into the problem. Their role should be limited: keep people safe, prevent threats and avoid escalating a lawful court process into a police encounter. That is especially true in a dispute where one side is saying, in effect, “Take this to
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